Memorandum of Understanding between Travel Agents Association of Sikkim and Sikkim Mountaineering Association.

We, the two above mentioned registered Organizations have come to an understanding on this day the 15th September 2005 on the wake of a policy matter by the Government of Sikkim to open up the following Alpine peaks for climbing as a new step to promote quality Adventure Tourism. The Alpine peaks declared opened for climbing are as follows:

Frey Peak

1. Lamo Andgen North Sikkim
2. Brumkhangtse North Sikkim
3. Frey’s peak West Sikkim
4. Mt. Thingchinkhang West Sikkim
5. Mt. Jopuno West Sikkim

The Role of TAAS
1. To market these peaks all over the World for climbing.
2. To control “fly by night” operators who normally practice irresponsible tourism.
3. To employ all technical people versed in mountain climbing from SMA by
attaching the technical person as the Liaison Officer.
4. To ensure that all people employed are local and discourage influx of outside personnel in the highly eco-sensitive areas where these peaks are located.
5. To practice eco-friendly ways which is incorporated in TAAS’s Code of Conduct.
6. TAAS will also undertake to be a watchdog for mismanagement of the environment, such as random disposal of garbage, bio-piracy and ensure employment and income generation of the people of the said areas.
7. TAAS will market these peaks in such a way and project them as the Flagship of quality Tourism in Sikkim in the most befitting manner to make all people and the Government of Sikkim proud.
8. TAAS will make connection with the best in this business from across the globe and help our State Government project these alpine peaks as the ultimate destination in Adventure Tourism.
9. TAAS will seek technical advise, route and camp planning from SMA and organize the climb under technical advise of SMA.
10. TAAS have decided to appoint 1) Mr. Peter Hillary and 2) Mr. Jamling Tenzing Norgey as marketing and technical advisors which both have gladly accepted. TAAS would also appoint Life Members of SMA as technical advisors.

The Role of Sikkim Mountaineering Association
1. SMA will provide technical support to TAAS as and when necessary.
2. SMA will coordinate with TAAS for imparting technical training to the guides, support climbers.
3. SMA will organize open expeditions in co-ordination with TAAS as a means of publicity for future marketing.
4. TAAS and SMA will jointly support the Government of Sikkim in formulation of policies in terms of Adventure Mountain Tourism.
5. The expedition jointly conducted by SMA and TAAS will regularly come back to the State Government with the feedback from the field with the ground realties.
6. The SMA will ensure that the first priority of technical mountaineering personnel will be available to expeditions marketed by TAAS.
Palzor Lachungpa Kazi Sherpa
President General Secretary
Travel Agents’ Association of Sikkim. Sikkim Mountaineering Association.

Recently the Government of Sikkim has opened five mountains for mountaineering expeditions in Sikkim vide notification No.25/HOME/2006 dated 20/03/2006 issued by the Home Department of Sikkim,
The first Successful International Official Expedition to Mt. Thingchinkhang (6010 meters) in Sikkim Himalaya was organized by Yak and Yeti Travels and Expeditions expedition with climbers from Spain, Germany and India on 19th October 2006.

Peaks in West Sikkim
Name of Peak Location Grade
Frey Peak
5830 mtrs
West Sikkim AD+
6010 mtrs
West Sikkim D+
Mt. Joponu
5603 mtrs
West Sikkim D
Peaks in North Sikkim
Name of Peak Location Grade
Lama Wangden
5868 mtrs.
North Sikkim AD
5635 mtrs.
North Sikkim AD

The permits for the above mentioned peaks will be processed by Yak and Yeti Travels & Expeditions, – the premier company to organize mountaineering expedition in Sikkim with the State Home Department in Gangtok.

Expedition Royalties
The following royalties are levied for the expeditions.

For foreign expedition teams: US$ 350 per team of upto four members, US$ 500 per team of upto eight members and US$ 75 for every additional member.

Insurance is must for all the climbers booking peaks through us.

Yak and Yeti Travels & Expeditions will arrange to cover the insurance as below:

Expedition guides/Sherpas: Rs. 3 lakhs per member
Camp crew: Rs. 1 lakh per person
Porters: Rs. 50,000/- per person

Yaks/dzo/horses: Rs. 20,000/- per animal

The best season to climb in Sikkim is from April to December. Foreign expeditions visiting Sikkim will have to book the peak with a peak royalty. It is mandatory for Expeditions in Sikkim to take a liaison officer from the Sikkim Mountaineering Association of which Satish Bardewa is one of the Life Members and local mountaineer in Sikkim. It is advisable to book the peaks well in advance with us in order to complete all the official formalities. Generally we obtain the permit in a period of one week. Rescue operations during emergencies and accidents are looked after by the liaison officer who will coordinate with us and government machinery.

You can also enquire about exotic Kanchenjunga trek, Gochala trek, Dzongri trek, Green lake trek, Singalila Yambung trek that we regularly organize.

Come to a world of excitement and adventure. If you have the zeal we have the expertise and world class climbing equipment.

Frey’s Peak
A beautifully Matthorn looking peak in near Rathong glacier lies in the vicinity of the Kabru sister of peaks, Rathong and Kokthang West Sikkim . This peak is best-approached traversing Frey glacier. The is mostly rocky with snow in its gaps. This peak is named after famous mountaineer George Frey who in an attempt to climb this peak with Tenzing Norgey fell and died. George Frey with confidence did not listen to the advise of Tenzing Norgey to put on his crampons. His Ice axe and crampons are still lying at the base of Frey Peak as him memorial.

Mt. Thingchinkhang and Mt. Jopuno
Mt. Thingchinkhang (6010 Mts) and Mt. Jopunu (5603 Mts) are situated in western Sikkim and falls under Khangchendzonga National Park which is window to natural beauties, bio- diversity, sacred lakes and snow capped mountains. One can see this peak from Okhlathang Valley while trekking to Gochala (pass ). These two peaks have been declared by Sikkim Govt. as trekking peaks in 1990. Since then it had caught the eyes of many mountaineers, but it has only been appreciated much then climbed.

These mountain can prove just more than a trekking peak for many mountain climbers. From the summit of these peaks one can enjoy a breath taking view of some of the most beautiful mountains of Sikkim Himalayas. Mt. Pandim (6691 mts) on the right stands to the towering heights just in the same range where these trekking peaks rises.

Just across Okhlathang Valley one can see peaks like Gocha, Rathong, Kabru sisters, Siniolchu and the mighty Khangchendzonga. Mt. Makalu in Nepal is also seen from here.

Lama Wangden
5868 mtrs.
North Sikkim AD
5635 mtrs.
North Sikkim AD